Forums, Engine, Gearbox, Stern Gear, etc, Removing a volvo penta 2002 Gearbox insitu
22:20 15 October 2023
Removing a volvo penta 2002 Gearbox insitu
Lee at 26/03/2010 18:48:38
Removing a volvo penta 2002 gearbox with the engine insitu.
Has anyone done this? The cooling water is not making it through the gearbox oil cooler
The questions I have are:
Can the shaft be slid back far enough to pull the gearbox of the engine?
How do you stop the shaft turning to undo the flange bolts on the gearbox?
Why are those Allen bolts so darn tight and any ideas about undoing them?
Will the gearbox fit through the access hatch?
Will I go mad trying this?
If it’s not feasible, any advice on how best to lift the engine out would be gratefully recieved.
Thanks
Lee
22:20 15 October 2023
Removing a volvo penta 2002 Gearbox insitu
RobMilledge at 26/03/2010 20:28:19
Lee, I think you may be better off in the long run to move the whole engine forward.
Try sticking a bit of 4×2 in the prop apperture to lock it all off.
Loads of WD40 on the allen bolt and anf a bit of tube on the allen key to give more leverage.
22:20 15 October 2023
Removing a volvo penta 2002 Gearbox insitu
moongirl at 26/03/2010 20:32:09
Never tried working on a Volvo but here are some thoughts based on Yanmar/Beta experience etc How does shaft fix to gearbox – your post suggests flange to flange. You might find it easier to slide the engine forward by removing the bolts holding the anti-vibration mounts and sliding the whole lot up the bearers. I did this with a Yanmar by putting old genny sheets around the front feet and round the mast and simply lifting the 2 bits like you would a suitcase. There is probably insufficient clearance between the prop and the leading edge of the ruuder to slide the shaft back. Can you get a bar across the flange to jamb across the hull? Use a long bar plus socket version of male allen screw to shift the allen screws. There should be room to get the gearbox through the access but i do not envy you the task as there is so little room and the weight of the gearbox is considerable! It might be sensible to lift the whole engine/gearbox package out in one. This should not be too difficult as you can use the boom to act as a hoist – mind you I think the Volvo package is quite a bit heavier than the Yanmar or Beta so I would be caredful if considering this option Hope this helps. Post re progress as this will probably be of interest to others
22:20 15 October 2023
Removing a volvo penta 2002 Gearbox insitu
Lee at 28/03/2010 08:21:23
Thanks to both of you for your advice.
Yesterday I welded an allen key to a length of bar (there’s not enough relief in the shaft clamp to allow a socket access)
I am quite keen on the idea of removing the bolts from the bearers and parbuckling the engine fowards with a rope on the mast. I was strugggling with the idea of how to move it.
I will be back on the boat tomorrow and will post later in the week to (hopefully) detail the solution.
Thanks again
Lee
22:21 15 October 2023
Removing a volvo penta 2002 Gearbox insitu
Alan Dixon at 29/03/2010 16:15:59
Hi, I suggest engine removal as the easiest option. I have not had the pleasure of removing a CO32 engine yet. But have removed quite a few engines as follows. Disconnect everything, slide the largest batten you can as far under the sump as possible. Construct a blocks of timber under the batten as close to the engine as possible. Sit astride the batten, by pressing down and you will be able to lift up the engine and carefully pull it out. Installation is the Reverse.
22:21 15 October 2023
Removing a volvo penta 2002 Gearbox insitu
Lee at 01/04/2010 12:27:48
Thanks to everyone who offered me advice with this problem. I managed to remove the gearbox insitu and have detailed below how to do it. With the exception of the gearbox to engine interface bolts everything else needed removing anyway. The gearbox bolts didn,t present too much of a problem.
Removing the gearbox-
1) Remove hose between seacock and gearbox inlet pipe (if it’s stuck on the gearbox side, leave it on as that pipe is next to be removed).
2) Remove inlet pipe from gearbox by removing two 10mm bolts from flange securing inlet pipe.
3) Remove pipe from inlet side of impeller by removing water pump clamp and securing fastener on the other end of the pipe.
4) Remove hose from impeller pipe leaving it attached to the gearbox outlet pipe (outlet pipe not accessible and in my case severely corroded)
5) Remove 10mm Allen bolts from prop shaft / gearbox flange. This was tricky, they were very tight and I had to weld a bar to an allen key for leverage ( a pipe over the Allen key is a good alternative). I locked the shaft by placing a thin bar between a bolt and the hull, if you do not have any really thin bar be prepared to sacrifice a large screwdriver to the cause.
6) Slide the shaft back until stopped by the propellor retaining nut/ shaft hitting the rudder. I found the shaft sat very well in the volvo seal and did not require support. I was prepared to undo the clamp/ shaft interface bolts and slide the prop clamp flange back but this was not necessary.
7) Undo the morse cable clamp aloowing the morse cable to lift up slightly ( this allows easier access to the gearbox / engine bolts.
8) Using a mirror to help, place a socket drive over the gearbox and onto the bottom gearbox retaining bolt (I didn’t need knuckles or extensions but it would pay to have a few handy). Undo this bolt (hardest to access), then the remaining five a quarter turn (these were all easily removed on both my engine and the donor engine which I have for spares). Then remove each of the six retaining bolts fully.
9) Place a sail tie around the rear of the gear box to support it/help in the wiggle process and gently lever the gearbox back. When the spline is disconnected from the engine turn the gearbox through 180 degrees, pausing part way to disconnect the end of the morse cable from the gearbox by removing the split pin which retains it. A you turn the flange moves sideways past the shaft clamp, when it is clear just pull back and it is free.
10) Removal through the inspection hatch requires one of the inlet pipes to be removed (which it should be by now).
11) Replacement should be an exact reversal (haven’t got that far yet) but I will be putting a drawstring under the engine and attaching the gearbox outlet hose before putting it back. Getting this hose on afterwards would be very hard.
12) I would add, in a moment of brash boasting, that I am quite strong, which was handy when turning the gearbox. If you would struggle with this then I would slide the shaft coupling right back, this would remove the need to turn the gearbox insitu (although you would need the mirror and a pair of long nosed pliers to remove the morse cable split pin as it will be on the wrong side.
The access hatch I used is not through the port locker but in the starboard pilot berth. I won’t fit in the locker.
I am afraid I did not measure my access hatch but I will and I’ll post it here later.
Although it was a bit of a faff, it was a lot easier than engine removal.
I have a lot of 2002 spares and was lucky enough to have a gearbox for replacement. I will be replacing the oil cooler on the old gearbox and will post details of that when I have done it.
Thanks again to everyone for all of your help, I didn’t need to remove the engine but had I needed to I would certainly have been well equipped, knowledge wise, to go about it.
Lee
22:21 15 October 2023
Removing a volvo penta 2002 Gearbox insitu
moongirl at 01/04/2010 19:45:37
Lee
It would be a good idea to send your gearbox notes to George to allow him to convert to a pdf in our Tech Section. George prefers ‘Word’ docs and his e-mail address is under Committee I believe – if not he is in Handbook (Concerto)
Regards
22:21 15 October 2023
Removing a volvo penta 2002 Gearbox insitu
St Paddy at 08/04/2010 20:56:49
Hi
To stop the gear box put it in gear, this works most of the time, It the engine turns over easily then it has little compression and you will want to concider this in the whole equasion.
If it has compression and still turns over use a ring spanner on the bolt head and lean it against the coupling body slide a tube onto both spanners longer, tubes until it starts to rotate, or shears off.
If you have allen heads then get a open ender and use the same principle
bewear it might crack free and you might then punch somthing, get some padding in the way.
Same with the 6 bolt clamp, good quality allen key and a tube, alway worked for me and I have done several. Look for a grub screw and check they are not backed up measure down to look for the other down the hole. there might be a roll pin, if so get a good pin puch to drive it on through, don’t be tempted to use a screw driver and it will damage the roll pin and make life harder.
I would first flush the syastm with Ridlyme de-scaler, and then you can just go sailing.
I have some 07764 188815