Forums, Internal Fixtures and Fittings

George Isted at 24/06/2013 14:05:01
Concerto is pretty dry having fixed a range of leaks but we were still finding water coming into the boat in the bow area but only when beating in medium to strong winds. I finally tracked this down to small gaps in the bonding between the bulkhead at the back of the anchor locker and the deck. The bonding in this area was not quite perfect and the gaps were just enough to let water in when the bow was awash, the water would track down the bulkhead at the front of the V-berth and end up in the bilge. It was only when I took a hose to the top-aft end of the anchor locker I found the problem. Hopefully this post will be helpful to others that may have a similar leak.

Nick Howes at 16/06/2013 22:35:44
Has any one had any experience of fitting a calorifier water heater and pressurised water system ? I would appreciate any input. Thanks, Nick

nardus at 22/04/2013 10:56:45

She`s from `77 and i want to treat the internal watertank so it can be used for drinking water again.
My plan is to sand it down a bit a give it a few layers of special watertank epoxycoating.
The back of the tank will be hard to reach but not impossible..
Also thinking for a flexible water bag that will fit in the existing tank..
anyone ideas ?

Kind regards,

Ben
Edited: nardus on 2013-04-22 10:59:36

waratah912 at 12/04/2013 13:03:04
Has any got or sailed with the latest JR design with the raised area around the mast step, level with the sole in the heads? Any benefits / drawbacks? More and drier space for electricl connections looks like a plus, but does it mean you don’t bang your head so often?

Thanks

George Isted at 20/11/2012 13:14:15
Hi,
I am considering insulation in order to reduce condensation and keep the boat warmer in winter. In particular I am looking at the forward cabin and how to fit some insulation to the hull sides and possibly under the deck with material like this… http://www.thermawrap.co.uk/gp_wrap.html. I used closed-cell foam sheet in a previous boat (similar to a yoga matt), it worked well but did not like being stuck on so perhas thermawrap is better?

Has anyone go experience of doing this?

Where have you insulated?

Regards

nardus at 29/10/2012 08:40:25
I Have a ’77 Contessa with the fibreglass moulding for the heads area and I want to replace the toiletbowl.
I discovered on the Lavac site this:
“there are two models of the Lavac vacuum toilet : In 2005, production of the Lavac “Zenith” model was discontinued. The replacement is a newly designed Lavac Popular Model. Many of the Zenith and Popular parts are not interchangeable"

I`ll assume that our `77 contessa is equipped with the older Zenith model ?

thanx in advance.

gregcope at 03/09/2012 19:12:18
Hi All,

I have the classic Linear galley and aspects need a tidy;

Some of the early ’80’s formica is damaged;I want to replace the Coolbox with a CB40 pre-made Fridge that will mean moving / replacing the coolbox access lid – I also might need to move the sink a smidgen forward.Hence I thought a new Coran worktop, followed by replacement of the formica with thin Stainless should give a modern, clean look.

Thoughts?

I’ve emailed JR to ask if they do any parts.

Berneray at 17/08/2012 14:33:09
Can you help?

I am going to replace the existing forepeak arrangement of plywood and plastic panelling and forward upper cupboard with bare GRP and simple shelving. Have you any experience of this or tips?

I am particularly interested in how to secure a a 3/4 length shelf on both sides which is suitably load bearing. I presume it will have to be a chemical bond that takes most of the load rather than a physical arrangement.

Any thoughts?
Many thanks.
A. Fulton

George Isted at 20/07/2012 09:44:07
Really annoying leak – any ideas? Hi all, ever since having Concerto I have had a really annoying leak and I have so far been unable to find it’s source so I’m hoping someone else has a fix or an idea where this water is coming from. The boat is generally very dry but when sailing and the boat heels I get water seeping out onto the floor, some seems to come from are area at the front of the engine, on the starboard side, possibly under the battery storage but the locker itself is dry. Most of the water seems to work its way forward somehow and then come out of the small gap or join that is between the vertical locker front (to the starboard seat/berth) and the “slanty"; bit of the cabin sole (sorry about the use of the word “slanty"; but it was the best I can come up with). Having had a load of work done last year on the boat (new tank, floor, toerails, etc I was hoping that the leak would disappear but it is still going and really annoying as it’s about a cup or two of water at times. My only thought it that water is collecting somewhere when the boat is on its mooring and then when she heels over this water is released from where it is collecting. So before my nice new floor becomes watermarked, any ideas?

James Chew at 01/06/2012 23:29:16
Hi, I’ve just bougth a ‘73 contessa with what I assume is the original saloon table fitted. Can anyone tell me how it is supposed to slide down to make a double bunk? Mine won’t budge and I can’t see anything holding it place so I guess it’s corroded. Has anyone else had this problem?

Many thanks

gregcope at 28/09/2011 20:25:28
Hi All,

Any ideas where these come from, including the “foot”?

Ta.

Greg

bobmax at 23/09/2011 04:23:00
Has anyone taken out and replaced the fuel tank if so do you have any pointers.

nardus at 18/08/2011 09:01:53
Hi all,

Only 4 screws to mount the gusher to the floor. A quarter inch into the hull will be sufficient to mount the device, but I`m a little afraid to screw direct into the hull. Any tips ?

Rogermcd at 20/07/2011 18:43:33
Hello all,
I’m thinking of re-covering my saloon cushions. I’ve asked CJ marine for a quote. The old cushions were very well made and a complicated shape. I’ve considered having a bash at it myself but have been pleasantly suprised that my wife thinks the quote is reasonable, so may go the proffesional route. Any views on materials, buttons or not, and best companies gratefully received. Roger McD

Jerry at 08/04/2011 17:12:09
I would like to replace the sink and formica worktop with Corian or similar and a more modern sink in my 1979 yacht. The galley is U-shaped. What else needs removing to facilitate removal of existing worktop and sink. In what order do things need to happen?There is no evidence of existing fastenings. Thanking whoever in anticipation !
Jerry

gregcope at 20/03/2011 20:07:54
Hi,

Not being able to work on boat today I decided to cut down a spanner so that I can tighten the locknuts a little harder than “finger tight whilst fingers are covered with grease” tight.

One on left is the other end and gives an idea of material removed;



My thanks to John of tower hill parish.

gregcope at 26/02/2011 11:07:42
Hi All,

Anyone care to share good/bad sprayhood suppliers in the South, Chichester area?

Heard good things about C&J Marine; http://www.cjmarine.co.uk who are local.

Any tips on what I should get look for? Present list includes;
Leather/suede covered Hand hold (separate to the “edge”);Ability to connect to a cockpit tent and/or Teneau cover at a later date;Robust Stainless frame (my present one is not suitable) – uprated if possible;(optional) Ability to mount/attach a flexible solar pannel to the “roof” section and run wires to the deck level;Height will need to be measured so my partner and I can “see” over the top of it when standing at the tiller for berthing;Lots of windows;Reasonably long, but not interfere with Main sheet;Possible issues around Jeny sheets rubbing;Cover Bridge Deck instrument pod and interface with Splash barrier (is that what it is called?), however not go too far forward;Holes/access for lines lead to Coach roof mounted winches;

chris at 07/02/2011 14:43:00
Hello,

Odd question, I am looking to put curtains in however not sure if the easy approach which is wire worm would work as the inner shell is thin and there would be nothing for the eyelet screw to screw into.

Anyone have curtains aboard, did you use tracks or wire?

Thanks

davidmacdonald at 11/12/2010 17:40:38
Hello all.

We’re thinking of treating Afrita/ourselves to some kind of heating system over the winter – in preparation for the Scottish summer.

The most usual option these days seems to be forced air heating (Eberspacher/Webasto etc.), but to get the heat forwards into the heads and forecabin means filling up the under-bunk lockers on one side with chunky ducting and associated insulation. Has anyone fitted such a system to a CO32 with just one outlet, either coming out under the galley or chart table, or perhaps amidships beneath the saloon table? If so, does it keep the forecabin warm or not or is two outlets the only way to go?

As an alternative we’re considering a hydronic system which would mean narrow water pipes to run forwards, so easier to fit, and we could get a calorifier and have hot water too (our engine is raw water cooled). Any experience with these systems?

The final option (third place at the moment) is some kind of paraffin or diesel drip heater on a bulkhead. This would be simple and use no electricity, but is more of a faff to light and I’m not sure there’s a suitable bulkhead in a Contessa 32. Has anyone used one of these? If on a Contessa, were is it installed?

Any suggestions welcomed.

David

BobRimmer at 08/10/2010 16:25:21
I want to remove the cabin sole on Bellerophon and rebed to cure noisy boards. Can anyone give advice on the procedure.

RobMcD at 07/09/2010 20:26:43
Want to refurb the heads on my 1976 co32, and trying to locate a/the supplier of the moulding, incorporating the sink etc.
Would appreciate any guidance/suggestions please. Thanks
Rob

GlennG at 27/07/2010 14:42:56
Have a ‘78 Contessa with the fibreglass moulding for the heads area. A Lavac toilet’s installed.

How on earth does one access the pump? It’s in the ‘wall’ and I just can’t see how to get to it. There’s a shelving unit above, but there’s no obvious screws here.

There’s no reason for getting to it other than it will need a service. I’m damned if I want it to break when I’m on a trip!

TIA,
Glenn

Keith Feltham at 31/03/2010 17:21:29
My sink pump gushes water from the top seal and I assume that new seals are not available. Does anyone know where a replacement pump can be sourced and how the old one is removed from the sink?
Thanks, Keith

George Isted at 28/01/2010 14:53:19
Hi all,
To meet Cat 1 racing regs I need to fit a secondary manual bilge pump that can be operated from inside the boat and the suggestion from Jeremy is that this should be fitted in the locker just forward of the galley with the pipework running around the galley and then following the route of the existing pipe through the engine bay. Having looked at the boat and the routing of the pipes it’s is going to be a real PITA job.

Galatea at 24/12/2009 02:48:37
I have 1 manual bilge pump and I’d like to add a high capacity electric, but it’s not clear to me where to put it. The bilge sump is too deep to fix a pump to the bottom. I could glass in a shelf near the top, but then the pump would not be able to completely empty the bilge. Also, I’m not sure what is the best arrangement for the outlet hose. My manual pump hose runs under the engine to the pump mounted in the port cockpit locker and then to a through hull, but I don’t think there’s enough room under the engine to run a second 1.5 inch hose. Any advice?