Forums, Electrical Systems, Navigation and Safety equipment

Hi All, This is my first post on the forum after I became a member today. One of the reasons to join the association is to tap into the aggregated knowledge of you all, so already many thanks for that…;-) As of September this year, I am the proud owner of a 1979 CO32 (called Puffin). She has some technical and cosmetic items to improve on and one of the most important ones is the electrical system. I was looking for a general electrical scheme on this forum, but didn’t find it. Would there maybe be someone that put his/her scheme on paper? Would be highly appreciated!

CO923 at 19/04/2016 23:52:47
Our ST4000+ tiller pilot ram and control unit went back to Raymarine last Autumn after spending the summer turning hard a-port as soon as we engage auto. Apparently this is a common failure mode in the ST4000+ system – the one with 3 units – compass, control/display unit, and actuator ram – which many people on this forum seem to find perfectly OK. The manoeuvre is referred to as “Crazy Ivan” because it’s like a manoeuvre some Russian submarine drivers liked to use during the Cold War.

It worked perfectly when I reinstalled it in December. On our first cruise of the new season, today, after four months ashore (of which more than 2 under a tarpaulin) it’s gone straight back to “Crazy Ivan” behaviour. Furious is an understatement!

The compass heading looks fairly steady and correct when the unit is in Standby and isn’t driving the ram. When I press the 10 degrees button in Standby, with the boat stationary and the ram not connected to the tiller, the displayed compass heading changes – this evening it dropped from about 25 deg to 0 in a few seconds. This only happens when I press +10, and NOT when I press -10. So it’s not just about the power drawn from the battery or I’d expect to see the same problem both ways.

Lots of posts have lots of theories. Everyone obsesses with metal near the fluxgate compass, but I’m fairly sure that is not the issue. I think I am down to two options. Either
1. There is voltage drop on the 12V line, which leads to noise, which affects the compass signal or the demanded compass angle – but if that’s what is happening, why is the effect not random, why does the system always do the same thing? Or
2. It’s a fault inside the unit – most likely damp, which has been suggested, and consistent with the unit working when it got back from Raymarine but not now after it’s been sitting in the cold for three months and in the rain as well for another month.

Sorry for the long ramble. 2 questions:
1. Anyone else had this or similar problems?
2. Has anyone else with an ST4000 got their control unit out in the rain on the side wall of the cockpit? Or in the installations people are happy with, is the control/display unit better protected from the weather?

DaleMoon at 12/08/2020 15:33:17
There are a few posts on this subject, but most from 5 to 10 years ago, so I hope no one minds if I revisit it.

I am replacing my entire instrument system as the original 1986 B&G system has finally given up. The existing depth transducer is on the centre line in the heads. It seems that the standard triducer that comes with most systems these days is the Airmar DST800 or a variant, which requires a 2 inch hole cut through the hull, (the current housing is much smaller). I’m concerned about the extra fairing, particularly as hoist straps often end up lifting directly under the transducer. Also, with has anyone fitted a triducer in this position, and does it give an accurate speed/log reading?

Any experience with this or other solutions would be very welcome.
Many thanks, Pete Fowler, Dale Moon

Mons Meg at 02/03/2020 19:03:49
A quick question for the electrical boffins.

My boat, built in 1979 for a very exacting engineer, has the battery master wired in on the negative side of the circuit. I’m about to fit a shore power battery charger capable of charging two batteries simultaneously but, if I connect the charger’s common negative terminal to both batteries, this will bypass the master switch’s ability to isolate one battery from another. After conducting a little research it appears that the norm is for the master switch to be on the positive side of the circuit and that I ought to rewire accordingly. Before I do, does anyone know why my boat may have been wired this way?

Inara at 20/06/2018 21:33:36

I’ve just fitted an Axiom 9 chart-plotter, and it came with a 3d transponder for fish finding.
I’m not particularly interested in fishing, but the 3d bottom map can be useful.
It is, however, a transom mount unit and I’m wondering whether anybody has experience of mounting these things in-hull like you can do with a depth sounder using oil baths or sealant etc?

My other thought is that the ideal place would be the centreline between the keel and the rudder because it obviously needs to see out to both sides. Anybody know if the hull there is extra thick or has a spine of something that would block sonar?

mcollen88 at 05/10/2017 14:51:05
I’m planning to rewire over the winter, ive seen a few posts of people making boxes to fit into the ply beside the nav station, then wiring it up in place. Does anyone have the sizes of box they built and the max size of switch panel used?
Thanks

mcollen88 at 10/07/2017 17:49:41
I am looking for things to do when the boat is next out of the water, one thing is that the depth transducer is a little bit iffy, not helpful when short tacking up the beach!
Airmar have an option of 0/12 and 20 degrees. does anyone know what the deadrise is at the bow at the heads?

Edited: mcollen88 on 2017-07-10 17:50:16

doug at 09/04/2017 20:12:18
Has anyone got, or put together, a wiring diagram? My boat is from 1979 with the two circuit breaker panel with banks of 8 toggle switches under.

I am particularly interested in how the original batteries were wired up. I have two rotary Lucas switches but this may not be original.

I know I should be able to figure this out myself but I struggle.

moongirl at 26/02/2017 12:27:27
does anyone know the wattage of ‘normal’ ie bayonet type Tricolour & Anchor lights on CO32 – all the info on the web seem to be confined to volts (yes we know they are 12 volts but in sizing new cables but it’s the watts that dictate the cable size)

moongirl at 27/01/2017 19:07:27
As my boat’s Instruments go back to the dark ages or non-existent I find myself looking for a completely new set up. Although I use an iPad with Navionics (no GPS) and will use it when entering a Harbour or narrow channel I need a GPS to use it. Currently I am looking at both Raymarine and B&G with the latter’s Vulcan offering everything I need ie speed, depth,wind,AIS & Navionics + wireless connection to the iPad. Does anyone have experience of B&G?

moongirl at 25/01/2017 19:08:14
Anyone any experience or opinions on this subject? My Engineering Training didn’t include this subject!

moongirl at 22/01/2017 16:06:44
very unusual for Moongirl to be asking Questions rather than answering them! Questions as follows:
Anyone have experience of Victron or Sterling Chargers used with 2 batteries + PV panel & location
Wiring diagram for above
Exide deep cycle batteries
My boat is in a Marina in Oslo until it gets a bit warmer & I need to keep the charge up!

mcollen88 at 10/11/2016 09:42:03
I have bought a Sterling Power battery charger and am wondering where to mount it.
Instructions say in a cool and dry place….
Any Thoughts ?

Wizard at 30/10/2016 23:25:32
I have what I believe to be an original panel for switching nav lights on. Some of the panel indicator lights are defective. Where can I get replacements?

Speedwell at 07/03/2016 19:33:17
I am new to solar panels. Speedwell is fitted with a deck mounted solar panel and Westech controller. The setup appears to be that the controller is connected to both starter and domestic battery banks but that it is configured to only charge the domestic. Is this usual?

Zoom 495 at 20/10/2015 16:38:13
Hello all. It looks like I will haul Zoom out of the water forr a while this winter to do some stern gear work.
So, in the interest of getting two birds stoned at once (Canadian saying ), I would like to do something about the depth sounder. Presently, the transducer sticks straight down through the hull just forward of the nav station bulkhead under the stbd settee. It protrudes in a very parasitical dragging kind of way out of the hull. There appears to be a transducer on the vessel`s centreline, just forward of the heads compartment under a hatch on the sole. The cable for it terminates dead end at the nav station. Is this a depth sounder transducer? Can I find an instrument that can use it if it is?
And whilst on the subject of electrics, what make/model of tiller pilot is fashionable on Contessa 32 these days?
Thanks folks,
Cheers,kris

George Isted at 28/04/2015 15:50:34
I, like many, have a single log transducer that is located under the floor of the heads compartment on the port side of the hull. This gives a faster reading on one tack than the other making the data unreliable for working out polars and general performance monitoring.

What have others done to fix this?

I think there is a way to have two transducers (one each side) such that is only reads the correct one – or perhaps it takes an average?

Alternatively there appears to be a combined speed and depth transducer that I could use to replace the existing depth transducer on the centreline of the boat.

Can anyone give advice as there is nothing useful about this online.

I walked past the very tricked-up Contessa 26 “Miao” at the weekend and I note that she has a Log transducer on each side of the hull.

Thanks

Alan Dixon at 28/12/2014 20:48:22
I am considering fitting a Raymarine Evolution tiller pilot EV-100 this system runs an fast seatalk based around NMEA 2000
My Chart plotter is garmin which has NMEA 0183 and 2000. The wind and speed instruments are Raymarine ST40 running old Seatalk which is based on NMEA 0183
I am aware that Seatalk \ NMEA converters are available but this puts £100+ on the price.
Will the tiller pilot system run satisfactorily without input from other instruments?
What is the best place to install the gear below?
Anything else I should be aware of?
Cheers
Alan

BobBraithwaite at 17/11/2014 18:13:39
Im replacing some of the electrics on Ariel my 1977 C32. Im looking at buying from Merlin (a S250E system), however wondered if there was anywhere to buy “Contessa” electrics panels. Any thoughts or experience on Merlin and any ideas on Contessa panels welcome

Nick Howes at 03/11/2014 08:57:03
Does anyone have a battery charger they have been particularly pleased with? I have two 110 ah batteries, may add a third engine battery. Thanks, Nick

Nick Howes at 20/05/2014 10:28:08
I intend to replace the batteries in Quest and intend to fit a Sterling advanced digital regulator with a 70 amp hr alternator. According to Sterling the best choice of battery would be a flooded wet cell battery as opposed to a sealed unit.

http://www.sterling-power.com/support-faq-2.htm

However should I be concerned about leakage when heeled ? If anyone has experience of this I would welcome their input-Thanks, Nick

Nick Howes at 27/03/2014 20:08:41
I would like to replace the existing nav lights on Quest with LED ones, does anyone have any experience of the best spec., make etc. Any input would be very gratefully received. Thanks, Nick

Brigitte at 27/03/2014 09:25:59
For information if anyone is interested. We inherited an old style tacktick wireless anemometer (pre Raymarine takeover) for which we were told one cannot get a bearing replacement kit; It’s a tidy sum of money to replace the unit.

I have discovered that it is not too difficult to take the unit apart and replace the bearings myself, a saving of over £400.

Drop me a line if you want further details.

david.barrow at 17/01/2014 16:07:33
I am hoping to take my boat to the Azores next summer for a months cruising.

I have read a lot about battery charging with all it complexities. I currently have a 13 year old Yanmar 2GM-F with a 55 amp standard alternator together with a (noisy) Air X wind generator. A few years ago I added another battery so I currently have 310 amp of storage. Whilst the current set up works pretty well I am aware that it could be improved for a much longer offshore passage. I obtained a quote for a somewhat all singing dancing system but it is far too expensive, and probably not really necessary. I could put an 80 amp alternator with the current drive belt +/_ an external regulator.

I have the average amount of electronics, a refrigerated cool box and an SSB.

I would value others thoughts and ideas .

David Barrow
Spirit of Amport

George Isted at 22/10/2013 16:52:17
The normal position for an autopilot in a Co32 is to fit it to the top of the starboard seat bench, and while this works ok it does lead to a couple of problems.. 1.The fixing point on the tiller is outside the 14-18"; range of how far it should be fitted from the rudder stock, this leads to…. a. not being able to put the helm fully over for a big course correction (often needed when under spinnaker) or to Tack b. secondly it makes the autopilot work harder as it has to extend or retract the ram more for a given course correction 2. the tiller pilot is vulnerable to being sat, knelt or stood-on. 3. In the case of the larger fixed-installation Autopilots (I’m thinking Raymarine ST4000, SPX-5 and the latest one EV-100) the Ram is a little too long to be fitted at right-angles to the tiller so you either fit it slightly a-skew or accept that it will push the helm further over to port than it will too starboard. Having used my ST2000 close to self-destruction (they are really not rated for extended use on a CO32) I want to fit Raymarine’s latest offering the EV-100, but I also don’t want the restrictions above. A bit of measuring-up suggests that the best place to locate the Ram would be just under the cockpit seat with the ram recessed into the cockpit side using a suitably strong custom-made GRP moulding that can be bonded from the inside to the cockpit side, with additional bonding to the underside of the seat to ensure it takes all the loading with no problems. The downside is that I would lose perhaps 4-6"; of height at the very end of the quarter-berth. So, tell me, is this a mad idea? Anyone foresee a problem with this?