Forums, Engine, Gearbox, Stern Gear, etc

BobBraithwaite at 29/09/2014 09:17:32
Ive recently purchased Ariel a 1977 C32 which is fitted with a Yanmar YM2, 2 cyclinder, 20HP. Im interested to know what engine mounts people use. The engine does vibrate at low revs and makes a knocking noise when you turn it off, which is why i wondered whether my mounts arnt man enough. Ive taken one out and it seems to be fine in terms of condition.
(i have pics but dont seem to be able to attach)

Livkai at 29/03/2014 03:22:01
Has anyone ever had rudder tube to hull bonding issues? I seem to have a small leak coming
from around the tube where it is bonded to the hull.

Nick Howes at 13/01/2014 22:42:56
I am getting conflicting recommendations from different installers of beta engines, does anyone have experience of these couplings? Thanks, Nick

Nick Howes at 01/12/2013 21:19:55
I am looking at a boat that has a 1990 Volvo engine which I am thinking of changing. Has anyone any thoughts on which is the better Engine, Beta or Yanmar ? Also I notice that most Contessas have a 20hp engine but I have come across one with a Beta 25hp, is 25 HP an advantage or overpowered for a Contessa ?

Thanks, Nick

Tazling at 15/07/2013 02:19:25
I have been going through some new-owner fun and games with my venerable JJT Contessa; the (Bosch) starter motor packed it in and I ordered a rebuild (ouch!) which arrived promptly but after installation was still flaky. Much despairing, checking of wires, etc. The behaviour was interesting - it would always work on the second try. (The previous starter had stopped working altogether, would just wail away w/o ever turning the engine over; so “2nd try” was an improvement but still bothered me.)

So after a lot of head scratching and cussing, I tried one “dumb” fix which seems to have made quite a difference… thought I would share it with you all.

I greased the teeth of the big Bukh flywheel and also the teeth of the small pinion gear that shoots forward to engage it. Both were pretty dry and the flywheel had some surface rust. After greasing, the starter motor consistently engages first time, every time. Of course, I had to clean up a fair amount of grease that was flung about enthusiastically by the flywheel :) but that seemed a small price to pay for success.

This may be a complete no-brainer for a more experienced mechanic, but for me (more of a deck monkey than a grease monkey) it was new info so I thought if anyone else is having flaky DV20 starter issues, you might want to give it a try.

eric clubley at 30/05/2013 13:10:50
I’ve got a Volvo Penta 2003, 1989 and it has developed a problem – not creating enough suction. Hard to start; revs drop by 100-200 every so often when at 2500/2800. It won’t tick-over it just stalls. Clean fuel, clean filters.
Air getting in or lift pump struggling?
Any thoughts, should I replace the pump?

thanks

eric

eric clubley at 30/05/2013 12:21:31
Raymarine give a range of distances from the rudder stock for fitting the drive pin. The range is from 457mm (standard) to 356mm. I want to fit it a greater distance from the rudder stock; within reason I’m assuming this won’t be a problem since it will provide more leverage.
Is there a maximum distance?

Farther from the rudder stock may constrict tiller movement of course

Of course I can ask Raymarine or their agents but it means sitting on the phone for 30 minutes

thanks

Eric

rogerfg7 at 25/05/2013 20:02:40
Second attempt at posting as previous one seems to have disappeared, or maybe it needs aproving firast.

My stern tube seems to have developed a leak. I have just put the boat in the water and the bilges are filling up with water in 48 hours. After checking usual culprits, sea cocks, stern gland and mast, I found after removing the rubber tube from the stern tube that water was leaking between the stern tube and the bonding around it. Moongirl posted on 15 Apr 2013 at 7:51p that the stern tube is ‘glassed in – just occasionally the bonding needs to be replaced’.

Presumable this is what is needed. Does anyone know what is involved in doing this, is it a rudder off, prop shaft out job or can it be done with prop shaft in-situ.

Many thanks, Roger

Nick Howes at 13/04/2013 21:48:37
Refit costs.
I am looking at several boats, trying to chose which one to buy. All need various different refits doing. Could any one give me an idea of the following costs ? I am reasonably capable at DIY/mechanical work so should be able to do certain things myself but may chose not too if I can afford to have someone else do it !!

Buy and Install:
New engine.
aquadrive
cutlass bearing
prop shaft
stern tube
3 blade prop
new fuel tank

Thanks, Nick

Jerry at 13/02/2013 19:52:35
My Darglow prop was fitted, new, a year ago + a new anode. My boat lives in Portishead Marina. I took it out of water this week to find the anode had completely disappeared. The two retaining screws remained. Could that be 100% erosion or did it break off ?

Liam Brooke at 04/02/2013 13:46:56
Dear Fellow Contessa Owners,

My boat (Tantris 1977) seems to have thrust / prop issue. Sometimes she wont get above 2knts even with full throttle. Then other times, 3-5knts isnt a problem.

It is potentially a dirty bottom, but then even with a clean bottom she is intermittent. I think it is something to do with the folding prop not ‘popping’ out properly as if I play around with the throttle, she will sometimes give me wildly differing boat speeds.

It is disconcerting, as I need a little more than 2 knts forwards.. Any suggestions welcome.

Best

Liam Brooke
07712423907

Derek at 29/10/2012 12:42:14
It seems pretty obvious for the following reasons that the one or both of the rudder bearings for ‘Wild Call’ need renewing: · As far as I can see (without removing the tiller and tiller block) there is some lateral movement (about 2mm) between the rudder stock and the bronze bearing at the top of the shaft. · The top bronze bearing turns along with the rudder stock. · Under power (only) there is steady stream of water coming into the cockpit through I think the gap between the rudder stock and the bearing – (although it could be entering between the bearing and whatever houses the bearing). I’ve studied the general arrangement drawing for the stern gear and rudder plus the helpful technical paper on rudder removal but neither of these seem to describe how the rudder bearings are fixed in place. So my questions are: 1. How are the rudder bearings ‘fixed’ to the boat and should they rotate with the rudder stock – seems unlikely as there would then in effect be another interface bearing surface. 2. Has anybody else had the same experience with water being pumped into the cockpit along the rudder stock and if so what did they do about it – if anything! The propeller is a three blade Darglow Featherstream. Any comments/answers would be most appreciated.

johnspencely at 30/09/2012 16:42:55
Any experience/recommendations as to rope cutter on CO32? 3 bladed conventional prop.

John Spencely
Peak Flow

Keny at 24/06/2012 11:18:51
Just a note about transmission vibration/noise on my co32 with beta 3 cyl. engine.
This was finally completely cured this year with the fitting of a Campbell 12/7 low drag prop. and a
Centaflex M127 rubber coupling.
For the first time I can run quietly at full power i.e. 3200rpm at 6.7 knots.
Hope this low cost solution may be of help to other owners.
Keny

Jingo at 08/06/2012 10:22:22
Hello,

Having just bought Jingo, we are now looking for manuals for the equipment that is aboard her, starting with an engine manual – workshop and owners – if anyone knows where I can get one or both I would be very grateful.

Dave
Contessa 32 Jingo

GlennG at 15/05/2012 09:18:36
Have fitted a new prop shaft, Tuffnell bearing and PSS seal. Have an Aquadrive thrust bearing/CV joint between the engine and prop shaft. Have a 3 year old 13.5 × 13 × 3 prop which is suffering from a bit of de-zincification but is sound. Engine is a 2GM20.

The engine revs to about 2700 max, indicating that it’s propped about right.

I’m quite disappointed that there’s still a fair amount of vibration when cruising at ‘normal’ revs, say 2300.

The old prop shaft was only 3 years old but needed to be replaced as it was clearly worn at both ends. I know that the stuffing box may have been a bit in need of stripping down, but I thought it was odd that the wear on the bearing end appeared a bit uneven. I need to measure how ‘circular’ the wear was, but it seems to be more on one side than another.

Ideas?

GlennG at 09/04/2012 00:16:00
When I lifted Perle this year the bottom rudder bracket (is it called a ‘pintile’?) was loose. I chopped off the skeg foot and found that the aft-most screw was loose and has no ‘grip’ in the GRP, e.g. it keeps turning when you screw it in.

What’s the consensus for fixing this?

I hear that there’s little hard resin to drill a significantly deeper hole. An engineer has suggested drilling a 1" hole transversely through the skeg and inserting a 1" rod that’s been drilled and tapped to take the pintile screw. Sounds OK to me and would permanently solve the problem. Opinions?

NickVBaker at 03/04/2012 20:26:54
Just before I get something wrong, would anybody be kind enough to tell me the specification of cutlass bearing I need and where to get it from. I’ve extracted the shaft and its 24.7mm at the bearing. Is this too worn? Its very polished and got some deeper grooves. I measured the unworn shaft between the seal and the engine coupling and it was about 24.85. So although it looks a bit dramatic, the wear is quite slight – isn’t it. Or is it?

I’ld be very grateful for some comments.

Nick Baker
French herring

GlennE at 28/02/2012 08:33:31
Just a quick one – ‘Contiguity’ is on the hard and among other jobs needs her cutless bearing changing. However, the boat has been placed so that her rudder is directly above a raised kerb. She is surrounded by other boats so moving her at this stage may not be easy. I need to know the length of the rudder shaft to determine whether the rudder has enough clearance to be dropped is situ.

GlennG at 21/01/2012 14:15:17
I’m fed up with problems with leaking stern glands, annual topping up of grease, etc. So I’m thinking of replacing the traditional packing gland with a Packless Sealing System (http://www.shaftseal.com).

Has anyone fitted one of these? Opinions?

Will it fit?

the5young1z at 22/12/2011 10:49:41
Is it possible to remove the propshaft by somehow ‘moving’ the engine and gearbox rather than taking the rudder off? I may need to replace the cutlass bearing and also check the engine mounts and alignment.

gregcope at 15/12/2011 20:45:37
Has anyone fitted or heard of a cockpit floor inspection / access hatch? Not looking for the whole floor access of the CO26 (although that would be good).

Access via the pilot berth is a yoga challenge, and I warn my partner to call someone if I do not respond within a few hours as I might be stuck!

Ta.

GlennG at 20/11/2011 12:35:16
My stern gland is a bit leaky, but a couple of turns on the grease pump stems the flow.

Silly question; is it possible to replace the packing in the water, or is that a ‘bit brave’ and a lift-out is necessary?

[broken image removed] title=“Perles stern gland”

Edited: GlennG on 2011-11-20 12:44:37

Lee Co888 at 06/05/2011 08:57:54

Hello,

I wonder if anyone could tell me the best way of locking the propshaft behind the deadwood while racing. Do you use grips on the shaft? I find that locking it in gear always allows the prop to move away from the deadwood a bit.

Regards

Lee

geoff palmer at 05/05/2011 08:59:36
HURTH GEARBPOX
I am replacing my Hurth gearbox on my Lister Petter engine.
I’ve disconnected the propshaft which gives me a little space to move the gearbox back from the motor.
IS THIS ENOUGH SPACE??
I will also have to unbolt the rear engine supports for the motor which I will chock up.
IS THERE A PROBLEM WITH RECONNECTING THE ENGINE – GEARBOX
If anyone has experience of this I would appreciate some feedback
Edited: geoff palmer on 2011-05-05 09:01:14